Stage 1: Milngavie to Drymen, 12 miles, 19 km, 6 - 7 hours
After setting off from Milngavie today’s route runs through the ancient earldom of Lennox between the Campsie Fells and Blane Water. You follow a series of good paths through beautiful rural scenery to Drymen, a small and charming village. A recommended stop is the Glengoyne Distillery, where you can take a tour and enjoy a wee dram to send you on your way. Also on your way to Drymen is the Beech Tree Inn, which has a lovely garden and does great food.
Drymen is slightly off the route, so refer to your map to ensure that you don’t overshoot the mark.
Drymen to Balmaha, 8 miles , 13 km, 4 - 5 hours
As you leave Drymen you start to climb towards Conic Hill, which sits astride the Great Divide, separating the highlands and lowlands of Scotland. The climb is fairly steep but on reaching the summit you can enjoy fantastic views over Loch Lomond, Britain’s largest body of fresh water covering 27 square miles. You descend a steep path towards Balmaha, which is a small village nestling in a protected bay on the shores of bonnie Loch Lomond.
Balmaha to Rowardennan, 7 miles, 11 km, 4 - 5 hours
This is a beautiful but deceptively tough section. The path alternates between the loch shore and natural forest and headlands on the banks of Loch Lomond. There are numerous short steep climbs, and if you have walked all the way from Drymen you will be very pleased to see Rowardennan. That said, the scenery, forest and birdlife is outstanding.
Rowardennan to Inversnaid, 7 miles, 11 km, 4 - 5 hours
Leaving Rowardennan, the West Highland Way follows forestry roads and gently climbs high up above Loch Lomond, giving fantastic views over the water and towards the peaks of the Arrochar Alps. As you close in on Inversnaid the path narrows and becomes more undulating, passing over a spectacular bridge and waterfall as you arrive at Inversnaid Hotel.
Inversnaid to Inverarnan, 7 miles, 11 km, 4 - 6 hours
Departing Inversnaid you pass through the RSPB Inversnaid Nature Reserve and then close by to Rob Roy’s Cave. The path from Inversnaid to the head of the loch is hard going with numerous ups and downs and a generally rough surface. After leaving the loch side and passing Doune Bothy the path improves but it may seem a very long two miles from Ardleish to Inverarnan. If you are staying across the water at Ardlui, look out for the sign pointing to the little ferry (2 miles before the end of this section). Walk down to the loch shore and call the ferry by raising the ball (you'll be returned to this same spot the following day).
Otherwise, lovely Beinglas Farm marks the end of your day. Leave the way and follow the signs for Inverarnan. The 300-year old Drovers Inn is world-famous and provides the ideal location for your end-of-day refreshment.
Crianlarich to Tyndrum, 6 miles, 10 km, 3 - 4 hours
After Crianlarich you enjoy a period of secluded woodland walking before making your way back to the valley floor and through farmland surrounded by towering highland scenery. There is a handy small shop at Strathfillan Farm two miles before Tyndrum (which also has a useful shop with outdoor kit) if you need to pick up some supplies at this stage.
Tyndrum to Inveroran, 10 miles, 16 km, 4 - 5 hours
Get ready for a great day's walking. The Scottish scenery is stunning and now that you are getting into your stride you will love the fast-going on military roads. Initially you follow the valley to Bridge of Orchy, a small hamlet and sometimes used as an overnight stop. The Hotel here serves delicious meals if you fancy an early lunch. There is a steep climb as you leave Bridge of Orchy, but you are rewarded with some of the best views in Scotland (in our humble opinion). A short descent brings you to the isolated Inveroran Hotel.
Inveroran to Kingshouse, 10 miles, 16 km, 5 - 6 hours
This is our favourite section of the West Highland Way. Leaving Inveroran you skirt Loch Tulla and then join the military road across Rannoch Moor, a wonderful, lonely and exposed place that was once covered by a giant icecap and is today covered in bog. There is no shelter and in bad weather it can be exposed, whilst in good weather Rannoch Moor is simply inspiring. 17th century Kings House provides great views of Buachaille Etive Mor, Scotland’s most photographed mountain.
Kingshouse to Kinlochleven, 9 miles , 14 km, 4.5 - 6 hours
From Kings House you follow an old military road to Altnafeadh, which gives great views of the famous ‘weeping glen’ and site of the Glencoe Massacre in 1692. Then you zigzag up the Devil’s Staircase to the highpoint of the West Highland Way at 548m, which gives stunning views towards Ben Nevis, given clear weather. From here you wind our way down into the pretty little town of Kinlochleven, marking the end of a very pleasant day on the trail.
Kinlochleven to Fort William, 16 miles, 26 km, 6 - 8 hours
The initial sharp climb out of Kinlochleven is worth it for the fantastic views it brings, and once over the top you follow a wonderfully remote valley past deserted sheilings towards Fort William. Enter a beautiful area of cultivated forest and follow a narrow winding track into Glen Nevis. Towering ahead is Ben Nevis. Britain’s highest mountain, and you follow a wide forestry road down to the Visitors Centre. The final two miles are along the Glen Nevis road, bringing you to the official end of the West Highland Way at the main street of Fort William, where your adventure comes to a close.
Bare facts
The West Highland Way is a walking trail running for 152km through the Southern and Western Highlands of Scotland, from Glasgow to Fort William.
The highest point reached by the standard route is 548m at the summit of the Devil's Staircase, between Kingshouse and Kinlochleven.
The terrain over the course of the route is varied and includes wide smooth tracks in forests, twisty paths over moorland, hillside paths, undulating paths in trees, and field paths.
Trekkers completing the whole West Highland Way typically take one week. The route is easily accessible for most of its length and it is suitable for walking in shorter sections. The wealth of Highland mountain scenery on all sides allows many side trips to be enjoyed.
Best bits
Spectacular sights
The West Highland Way has its fair share of awe-inspiring sights, but these in themselves are not the main attraction of the trek. Absorbing the constantly changing Highland scene is what it's about.
Your list of most scenic spots might include the view from Rowardennan down a long stretch of Loch Lomond, the sight of the conical mountain Beinn Dorain after leaving Tyndrum, walking under the gaze of Buachaille Etive Mor as you leave Rannoch Moor near Kingshouse, and the revelation of the Mamore mountains with Ben Nevis beyond at the top of the Devil's staircase.
The bulky form of Ben Nevis appears as you drop into Glen Nevis, just before finishing the trek - a special moment!
Most enjoyable stages
Stages along Loch Lomond have a special charm. Each new section of the walk is a refreshing change and heralds the next exciting type of scenery to come. Between Balmaha and Rowardennan, and perhaps even more so between Rowardennan and Inverarnan, enjoy the glimpses and full views of the loch as you wind among trees.
The first stage truly to be in the company of mountains at close quarters, between Inverarnan and Tyndrum, has real charm. For overall excitement and scenic value perhaps the walking between Tyndrum and Bridge of Orchy, and between Kingshouse and Kinlochleven, is the best of a great week.
The West Highland Way relative to other walks
At about one week the West Highland Way is short compared to the Pennine Way (about 3 weeks) and Coast to Coast (2 weeks). The terrain itself is also easier, for the most part.
The WHW sticks to the valley, with significant exceptions being the crossing of Conic Hill on the approach to Loch Lomond, the wild but straightforward walk over the edge of Rannoch Moor to Kingshouse, the crossing of the Devil's Staircase to Kinlochleven, and the high valley on the walk from Kinlochleven to Fort William.
Compared to the Pennine Way, the WHW does not require any very long stages due to sparsity of settlements, and sticks generally to lower ground. The WHW is perhaps closer in terms of challenge to week-long sections of Wainwright's Coast to Coast walk in England.
Is it for me?
Long distance paths
The UK has a wealth of long distance paths: trails on which your multi-day walk becomes your personal mission for the duration. Enjoy the West Highland Way for its magnificent scenery but also enjoy letting this mission and challenge guide your feet forward, always pointing to Fort William!
Can I manage it?
The West Highland Way is manageable for normal fit hillwalkers who are happy to walk for between 5h and 7h per day along a long-distance trail. Taking standard stopping points, none of the days are exceptionally long. Villages and accommodation are spaced out such that the walk can be completed in many short days or few long days, as you see fit. There are no climbs to the top of the highest mountains - the photos of spectacular Munros that illustrate the West Highland Way wherever it is mentioned are just what you will see from the trail, not where you will be walking. Nevertheless there are some sections of steep and rocky ground and the trail would not necessarily suit complete beginners to walking.
Rest days are possible along the route. In general the route travels through sparsely populated areas - the only chance to visit a real town is to make a detour by train from Tyndrum to Oban. Oban has good shops and would support an interesting day out. Visit the Oban Distillery and McCaig's Folly or take the short ferry to the wild island of Kerrera with its ruined Gylen Castle.
Back on the West Highland Way route, the village of Glencoe can be reached from Kingshouse and Kinlochleven.
Hillwalking excursions
For those who find the idea of walking through the mountains off-putting when they could be walking over them, there are several ways to alter the route to take in some peaks. Munro baggers are spoilt for choice. For those uninitiated into UK or specifically Scottish walking, the peaks while low by international standards can be rocky, confusing and unforgiving, all in highly changeable weather.
Consider climbing Ben Lomond in an extra day from Rowardennan, or in the same day as a WHW stage if you are very keen. Ben Lui and its nearby peaks (Beinn a'Chleibh, Ben Oss and Beinn Dubhchraig) can be climbed from Tyndrum or on the way from Inverarnan to Tyndrum. The five Munros South of Glen Falloch (Beinn Chabhair, An Caisteal, Beinn a'Chroin, Cruach Ardrain and Beinn Tulaichean) could be considered as an alternative to the valley route here, and Crianlarich itself makes a good base for the ascent of Ben More and Stob Binnein, or Ben Challum.
From Tyndrum a group of five hills (Corbetts rather than Munros) are handily placed. Bridge of Orchy then arrives and gives access to Beinn Dorain and its four neighbours (Beinn an Dothaidh, Beinn Achaladair, Beinn a'Chreachain and Beinn Mhanach). Between Bridge of Orchy and Kingshouse the Black Mount is the massif containing four Munros in a classic but complicated chain (Stob a'Choire Odhair, Stob Ghabhar, Creise and Meall a'Bhuiridh).
Famous and iconic peak Buachaille Etive Mor sits above Lagangarbh at the start of the Devil's Staricase and would be a fantastic detour for a day or half-day. Any time spent in Glencoe could be used to climb the peaks of Bidean nam Bian or the Aonach Eagach.
In Kinlochleven the Mamores are spread out to the North - Kinlochleven is an ideal start point for walks in this chain of 10 Munros. Take a day out for the circuit of Coire na Ba (Am Bodach, Stob Coire a'Chairn and Na Gruagaichean) or visit the peaks at the far East of the range (Sgurr Eilde Mor, Binnean Beag and high-point of the massif Binnean Mor). As a hillwalking alternative to the final stage of the West Highland Way into Fort William, tackle Stob Ban and Mullach nan Coirean before dropping into Glen Nevis higher up.
Finally, when in Fort William it can be very tempting to climb Ben Nevis as a fitting end to your trek from Glasgow. At 1,344m 'the Ben' is the highest hill in the British Isles and the ascent involves climbing almost all of that height from the valley.
What's it like underfoot?
Underfoot you will generally find good, well-maintained paths on the Way. Some are purpose-built for the trail, others are solid old military roads as built by Generals Wade and Caulfield. Surfaces can be hard, making comfortable footwear essential - this is the side effect of a relative lack of mud!
On the ascent of Conic Hill, a small but significant climb before reaching Balmaha on Loch Lomond, paths are good but steep in places. The Devil's Staircase has an intimidating name but is really just a well-made footpath climbing the hillside in twists and turns to cross the ridge away from Rannoch Moor.
Is the route obvious?
The West Highland Way has mostly good waymarking but it is far from foolproof. As with all walking in the UK, unlike in the Alps and elsewhere in Europe, signposts do not give timings or even (usually) distances. Most of the markers on the WHW are just symbols. For proper navigation where waymarks are far apart or unclear, or where it is dark or you are exploring off the route, maps are essential. We recommend all groups on the Way take good maps and know how to navigate with a compass. For guaging distances walked and still to be walked, the maps really come into their own.
Is it technically difficult?
The West Highland Way is not technically difficult and is designed as a long distance path open to all normally fit walkers. Where the trail becomes rockier or steeper than normal, this is shortlived. For most of the distance gradients are gentle and the surface is reasonably smooth.
When to go?
UK Exploratory's West Highland Way season runs from the start of April to the end of October.
We set this period to avoid the worst of the winter weather. Of course, it's possible to enjoy brilliant days along the Way in the heart of winter, whatever the weather is doing! The difficulty of predicting the winter season in advance means that we have to err on the side of caution.
From Easter to the Autumn you have a very good chance of decent walking weather. Rain is very likely to happen at some point during your trip! For the warmest temperatures choose the high summer months of June, July and August, but be prepared for heavy rain at times too. Earlier in the year, in the Spring, there can be spells of wonderfully warm and dry weather (no guarantees!) and May is the most popular month on the West Highland Way partly for this reason. Midges are a factor in the Highlands - tiny biting insects that can swarm around you and be quite frustrating - and these are most likely to be a problem during the high summer months. Midge headnets and insect repellant can save your sanity (as well as remembering that it's all part of the experience...)
Where to stay
Highland hospitality can be as friendly as it gets, from B&Bs to guesthouses, bunkbarns to luxurious hotels. For example, on UK Exploratory's self-guided holiday you might find yourself spending one night in a comfy hotel in the mountains and the next night in a friendly guesthouse on a village green.
The route
Rowardennan to Inverarnan
Forest tracks continue the route North from Rowardennan and rise gently high above the loch shore. Later the track ends and a winding, undulating footpath in trees brings you back to the water and to Inversnaid. See across the loch at this point to the group of mountains known as the Arrochar Alps. Carry on from Inversnaid, past Rob Roy's Cave. More lochside walking leads to an ascent past the small hill of Cnap Mor at the head of the loch. Finally reach Inverarnan beyond fields and across the River Falloch.
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Scotch Whiskey - "the water of life".
Glens, lochs and mountains, heather moorland and peat mires, hilly woodland.
Wonderful to see Hammy and knowing Gordon is there!
ROUTE PLANNING AND PANNING.
Normal duration for the whole walk is seven or eight days. For those feeling strong and whose feet can bear the pace, this can often be cut to six days. Any additional ascents will, of course, add to the time (and energy!) necessary. The signposts appear just at the right places - even if far apart - to keep the wayfarer on track.
Each day brings something new.
TERRAIN AS IN PATHS
The WHW under foot is hard for much of its length. It follows maintained paths, old military tracks and forest roads. There’s not too much asphalt, but the 152km will give your feet, knees and joints a pounding: there’s not much in the way of soft grassy sections, so prepare yourself by putting in a bit of mileage before hand and hardening up those feet and limbs.
Gushing trickles.
Warm muggy weather.
Still overcast evening - midges - behind the closed doors and windows of our Hammy.
Has the whole world arrived in....the Highlands.
From the lure of the Highlands to the suburbs of Glasgow.
Those who were camping along the way.
Long Distance Footpath.
Stiles and kissing gates, cattle grits and mud pools.
Many stream crossings of various depths.
RUCKSACK AND BOOTS
Packed things in plastic bags - so never had to worry about rain.
Boots are the single most important item.
Never got wet and never got cold feet.
Got insteps at the Green Welly for the rough terrain.
Blister avoidance tactics. Compeed.
Prepared for all weathers.
Walking alone.
THOUGHTS
So many feet tramped here before mine.
Read about things like the official starting place and then actually seeing it.
The biting midge
meanbh-chuleag - annoying bloodsuckers who when you are found - she sends a signal to others to join her in the feast. Surrounded in a crowd. Need to understand the wee beasties' habits. Dawn, dusk and long summer twilight hours. Avoid conifer forests. Welcome breezes. Keep moving. Head-nets.
Aware of bracken.
TREES
Caledonian forests, Scots Pine, oak, elm, hazel and ash - and the rowan, silver birch and a bit of Christmas with Holly. Beech with its own lighter shade of green. Juniper and Spruce and deer-proof fencing.
WILDLIFE
Highland cattle are uniquely native to Scotland. Shaggy - descendants of the wild ox. Toffee-coloured and some of the original black. Cows horns are upturned and bulls' horns are downturned.
SHEEP
Cheviot and Blackface on the high moorland.
BIRDS
Dippers with their dinner jackets - can walk under water on the bed of streams.
FLOWERS - page 65
SUMMARY
The Way begins quietly at the edge of Glasgow and builds up in a steady crescendo that ends with the arrival at the foot of Britains's highest mountain Ben Nevis.
The first part is lowland in character and offers easy walking, farmland, gentle hills -this section ends with the arrival at Loch Lomond and the long walk up the eastern shore. Slopes densely covered in oak trees. A walk of great character which combines the delights of mature woodland and open vistas across the loch. Once Loch Lomond is left behind the character of the Way changes again.
The hills begin to crowd in - but the walk isn't too dificult in the glens and an openess everywhere.
All this changes at the Bridge of Orchy and the crossing of Rannoch Moor - true wilderness, rough hummocks rising above dark brackish pools. It ends in spectacular fashion in Glencoe. The path runs right past Buachaille Etive Mor - a dramatic and beautiful peak. Now the walk goes up on the Devil's staircase to a summit from where the panorama of the Grampions can be enjoyed - followed by a descend to Loch Leven. and another climb up to a second superb summit viewpoint before gradually making its way down to sea-level at Fort William.
Picturesque lochs and heather-covered uplands. Getting a sense of continuity. A long distance walk full of delights. Not over demanding but also more than just a stroll.
Picture the rocks covered in snow in ice. Thankfully the Way is clearly marked by the symbol of a thistle set in a hexagon and yellow arrows indicate a change in direction.
I was never truly a solitary walker. An exhilarating walk through Britain's finest scenery.
Blisters can turn trail into trial.
3+6+11+7+12+7+2+10+1+8+14
THURSDAY 6 AUGUST - MILNGAVIE TO GLENGOYNE DISTILLERY
Started 12.45 am.
3 miles
Milngavie - middle class, commuter. on the northern edge of Glasgow, small pedestrian centre and the West Highland Information Centre.
Where's that obelisk?
Feeling both unsure and keen. Tuned in for every hot-spot or foot-ache. Within the first 20 minutes - already lost! Need to get in tune with the acorn. 2 French guys are also lost - soon we realise we are heading in the right direction - away from Glasgow.
Fast flowing river.
- Suddenly it is so important to find a parking place and make a start! Buy a passport and get the first stamp. The official start of the West Highland Way is a granite obelisk in Douglas Street, Milngavie. And so the path starts near a small car park behind shops, across a road, along a tarmac path for 100m, pass under a road into a tree-lined lane, which follows a disused railway - and it started!
- Route in hand - library on the left and feel the presence of Allander Water and the newness and uncertainty of what is ahead. Meander through Drumclog Moor and enter Mugdock Wood to a minor road and another finger posts point in the direction to follow. Always looking out for the waymarker - later on no need for that. Quickly out of the suburb into gentle countryside. The Campsies come into view. Oh there's Craigallian Loch on the right and then little coy Carbeth Loch on the left and soon The Way meets the B821, a careful cross over and tantalising views - which need to be walked to! Following a disused railway for 4 miles: straight, level, unglamourous and still the hum of the A81 traffic too.
Got to get tuned in for the waymarks.
A wee dram at the distillery?
The American lady who adjusted my straps.
The WHW starts inauspiciously from the obelisk, across the aforementioned car park, past the Allander Water burn before entering scrubby woodland. It soon becomes evident how popular the way is: within minutes we’re encountering fellow walkers on the route. Soon out of Milngavie, we were into pleasant country – not spectacular, that was still to come – as we headed towards pleasant Mugdock Wood and Craigallian Loch. Craigallian Loch, 5km from the start of the wayThe feeling that we were heading for some quality Scottish landscape was confirmed by the first sighting of the Campsie Fells and their sudden western termination at the pyramid-like, 427m Dumgoyne.
Yay for this boardwalk across marshy land and every other one that was lying ahead.
Had to cross through various metal stiles.
Yay for this boardwalk across marshy land and every other one that was lying ahead.
Had to cross through various metal stiles.
Compeed. feet were giving him grief and the plasters were applied to soothe his pain. various bits of my 65 year old body succumbed to the pounding and the rigours of xdays on the hoof.
First stop Dumgoyne. Having successfully resisted the temptation of a quarter-mile detour to the Glengoyne distillery, nestled under the fells,
Filled a plastic bag with water and soaked my feet one by one. Maybe not so cool but you know what it was so cool! Hang socks on sheep fence.
Security: have you got permission? Show him my boots and say we are on the WHW - leaving early next morning. He melted!.
Great sunset - and not so great midges.
Father Christmas and Elf - they played their winter wonderland and we jingled all the way! Clever guys. Obviously not in waterproofs and what would those beards look like in a few days' time. I saw them once more in Drymen but sadly they out-jingled me probably all the way to Fort William.
SMS from Izo..
Bag strap broke off - used scarf - doubled up to wave away the mosquitoes.
Wild life - escorted by 2 bunnies!
Milngavie to Drymen
The official start point of the West Highland Way is in the central street of Milngavie near shops, bakeries and banks. Within 100 metres' walk you are on a path heading into Mugdock Country Park where gentle walking among trees takes you to more open country. Pass Craigallian Loch on a wide track, then Carbeth Loch, coming to a sudden wide panorama of your route ahead. Drop down into the valley in the shadow of Dumgoyne in the Campsie Fells. On a long flat section along the old railway line pass Glengoyne Distillery
FRIDAY 7 AUGUST 2015
and later reach the road at the hamlet of Gartness. Along lanes come to the pretty and practical village of Drymen with its neat central green.
Drymen to Rowardennan
Set off from Drymen for Conic Hill, at 361m the highest point in the Southern half of the Way. After easy tracks through Garadhban Forest arrive at the foot of Conic Hill and ascend to its summit for great views. Loch Lomond is now well seen. The route drops down steeply to the small village of Balmaha on the shores of Loch Lomond. The second half of today's stage follows the shoreline of the loch, diverting a few times and climbing up and down over small rises. Views are excellent. Reach the hamlet of Rowardennan and enjoy the view North down the loch from the striking war memorial, a circle of stone containing a pyramid.
Set off from Drymen for Conic Hill, at 361m the highest point in the Southern half of the Way. After easy tracks through Garadhban Forest arrive at the foot of Conic Hill and ascend to its summit for great views. Loch Lomond is now well seen. The route drops down steeply to the small village of Balmaha on the shores of Loch Lomond. The second half of today's stage follows the shoreline of the loch, diverting a few times and climbing up and down over small rises. Views are excellent. Reach the hamlet of Rowardennan and enjoy the view North down the loch from the striking war memorial, a circle of stone containing a pyramid.
Glengoyne Distillery to Drymen (total 12 miles) and onto Balmaha
I think it was 9 miles.
Hand reaching for the hinged end of the gate, slip through and let it close. Lots of gates!
The Beech Tree Inn is still closed - the former Dumgoyne station here somewhere.
Or was this the next day?
Killearn - sewage right next to the road1 Wind blowing in the right direction.
Trudge along a quiet hedge-lined minor road to a pretty sandstone hamlet of Gartness.
Gartness Bridge over Endrick Water.
Wanted to drop a coin in the honesty box to share an ice-cream but we couldn't produce a quid between the two of us.
Then onto the outskirts of Drymen along the former Blane Valley Railway (1882 - 1951)
And then a section on metalled road to Drymen.
Funny big muddy old field to cross to the top of a grassy ridge and a waymark - near town - people are walking their dogs.
And then down a path between beech trees and at last.........Drymen
DRYMEN school and forest. Friday and Saturday 7th and 8th August.
No Drymen in Drimmun - too much rain and many pubs.
Saw the German Christmas guys in Dryman again.
Stamp at Drymen hotel.
Go to toilet - wash socks.
The librarian was lovely and happy to boil our little kettle of water for us.
Drymen is pronounced Drimmun - attractive - arranged around a green and will take us to the edge of the Highlands.
Loch Lomond!
The largest area of fresh water in Britain. 23 miles - gouged out by a glacier about 10,000 years ago - fjord like landscape. North flanked by mountains, south dotted by 38 islands.
Great frustration to find the waymark after their were 2 paths leading into Drymen. The librarian said go up that way a man walking his dog was very happy to give us directions - just go up there.
The Winnock, the epitome of an old coaching inn.Stocked up with food from the village’s two stores It was time to get out of Drymen
Eventually we stopped at the entrance of a forest - there spoke to 2 French ladies who were not on the walk and off I set. Many a km and no sign. Out of the forest into the open and now I have to keep my wits about myself not to get lost. Can't find the Buchanan wood where Gordon and I are meant to meet. At least we are in telephone contact. My feet are tired and I'm frustrated by not being on the route. Decide to retrace my weary steps and Gordon kindly meets me at the spot where he dropped me. We try to guess the miles and knew how many were left to Balmaha. Gordon measured the distance and I then walked the last 3-4 miles along the road.The reward was - first glimpses of Loch Lomond!!! And surely Ben Lomond too. The village of Balmaha was great to get to - laid back, like a holiday resort.
Balmaha provided the chance for weary footsloggers to lay down the rucksack and take boots off.
We chat with a Dutch family and have a lovely picnic on the comfort of a bench overlooking a Loch Lomond beach, a few boats - and took photos.
Much more contented, we head home to our spot on the forest where we would spend tonight and tomorrow night.
To the forest - quickly unpack before the midges pack us.
Great sunset - and views over Loch Lomond.
Tomorrow I would take the roadside path on the far side.....
SATURDAY 8 AUGUST
FROM BALMAHA TO ROWANDENNAN - 8 miles
walking poles flailing as a blistering pace is set? Well, not quite! The weather forecast was still fine for today but after this, not too promising at all! Tomorrow and the day after the skies grew greyer and the few spots of precipitation became a steady blanket of drizzly rain blisters being pierced, various liniments and plasters applied and a general fatigue.
giant slugs.
Yay for thicker, woollier socks that cushioned the feet a little better.
The Way follows the road out of Balmaha before joining Loch Lomond shore path.
The path winds its way around the shores and then really steeply up into Ross Wood
Under oaks along the bonnie banks, well maintained path that rise and fall many times as it meanders through beautiful woodland. Cashel campsite on the water's edge.The Way follows the road out of Balmaha before joining Loch Lomond shore path.
The path winds its way around the shores and then really steeply up into Ross Wood
Endless pictures! Didn't want to hurry over this section and yet needed to get a move on.
Balmaha to Rowardennan, on the shore of Loch Lomond, for about 7 miles.
The way follows Loch Lomond’s shore for 31km (19 miles). The path makes frequent visits to the lochside, and takes to the tar road briefly. The delights of Lomond are too big a distraction to make the walk anything but exciting as you make your way north.
Rowardennan marks the end of the motor road along the loch and is as well known as the starting point for the climb to Scotland’s southernmost Munro, Ben Lomond.
Great day of walking.
Washed my hair in Loch Lomond. Meet a Swiss couple and French couple.
Love to see the white of the Hammy through the trees and love more to see Gordon after about 2-3 miles at the Visitor Centre.
By midday I met Gordon at a family camping site - footsore, had lunch, nursed feet.
Undulating all the time sometimes in the hilly woods and then down at the lapping Loch Lomond.
Spotted what looked like a seal and definitely a buzzard.
Steep sets of stone steps down and then up again - great view points and zig zag down through the trees to the shore. Meet Gordon at Millarrochy and again at Sallochy Bay. Then another steep climb through oak trees. More views of the loch andn of the Arrochar Alps in the distance. More board walks - much better than the mud underneath them and another short section of shoreline. Up again and the path undulates through pine trees and down we go again and by now my feet were exhausted!!! The last bit on a grassy pavement with mud puddles was somewhat agonising. Gordon phoned and told me exactly where he was in the big car park - how wonderful to open the door of Hammy - and get off my weary legs and feet - and to be with Gordon!
First heather and beautiful wild flowers.
Very windy! Works well with washed socks dangling on the back of my rucksack.
Helicopter - sad to see shocked people - offered glucose water but the cop said they have things to drink.
This section crosses through the Queen Elizabeth Park. The trail rises through the forest into mature woodland. Woodland loops, a pathway beside low drystone walls. Some punishing little climbs on rocky steps.
Finally the Rowardennan pier comes into sight.
PARKED AT SCHOOL - got ourselves sorted but quickly realised we were under CCTV surveilance. We remembered the wood earlier in the day and made our way down a narrow lane flanked by the greenest of green.
I stayed in the back of Hammy as Gordon drove as we have already moved our things forward.
At the entrance into the Garadhan forest - we were soon ready to fall asleep - not without seeing the sunset glinting on Loch Lomond.
Back at Balmaha with all its heavy laden walkers. Some were bold enough to make a fire on the village green..
Starting to spot tents in the most romantic and secluded spots.
In our own Hammy we are reading John: about Mary's devotion, Lazarus' life in danger and Judas and his deceitfulness.
The wind is blowing through the trees bringing bad weather tomorrow.
We discuss the weather, road distances and difficult 2 sections - by myself - along Loch Lomond - without any contact with Gordon.
John 12 - the Greeks want to see Jesus is and this event is the final trigger of the arrival of Jesus' hour. The Pharisees are exasperated by Jesus' popularity and influence.
Do we want to see Jesus? Yes!
And then the moon shone on Loch Lomond.
We would be here a second night - all misty.
Great day of walking.
Washed my hair in Loch Lomond. Meet a Swiss couple and French couple.
Love to see the white of the Hammy through the trees and love more to see Gordon after about 2-3 miles at the Visitor Centre.
By midday I met Gordon at a family camping site - footsore, had lunch, nursed feet.
Undulating all the time sometimes in the hilly woods and then down at the lapping Loch Lomond.
Spotted what looked like a seal and definitely a buzzard.
Steep sets of stone steps down and then up again - great view points and zig zag down through the trees to the shore. Meet Gordon at Millarrochy and again at Sallochy Bay. Then another steep climb through oak trees. More views of the loch andn of the Arrochar Alps in the distance. More board walks - much better than the mud underneath them and another short section of shoreline. Up again and the path undulates through pine trees and down we go again and by now my feet were exhausted!!! The last bit on a grassy pavement with mud puddles was somewhat agonising. Gordon phoned and told me exactly where he was in the big car park - how wonderful to open the door of Hammy - and get off my weary legs and feet - and to be with Gordon!
First heather and beautiful wild flowers.
Very windy! Works well with washed socks dangling on the back of my rucksack.
Helicopter - sad to see shocked people - offered glucose water but the cop said they have things to drink.
This section crosses through the Queen Elizabeth Park. The trail rises through the forest into mature woodland. Woodland loops, a pathway beside low drystone walls. Some punishing little climbs on rocky steps.
Finally the Rowardennan pier comes into sight.
PARKED AT SCHOOL - got ourselves sorted but quickly realised we were under CCTV surveilance. We remembered the wood earlier in the day and made our way down a narrow lane flanked by the greenest of green.
I stayed in the back of Hammy as Gordon drove as we have already moved our things forward.
At the entrance into the Garadhan forest - we were soon ready to fall asleep - not without seeing the sunset glinting on Loch Lomond.
Back at Balmaha with all its heavy laden walkers. Some were bold enough to make a fire on the village green..
Starting to spot tents in the most romantic and secluded spots.
In our own Hammy we are reading John: about Mary's devotion, Lazarus' life in danger and Judas and his deceitfulness.
The wind is blowing through the trees bringing bad weather tomorrow.
We discuss the weather, road distances and difficult 2 sections - by myself - along Loch Lomond - without any contact with Gordon.
John 12 - the Greeks want to see Jesus is and this event is the final trigger of the arrival of Jesus' hour. The Pharisees are exasperated by Jesus' popularity and influence.
Do we want to see Jesus? Yes!
And then the moon shone on Loch Lomond.
We would be here a second night - all misty.
THURSDAY 6 AUGUST - MILNGAVIE TO GLENGOYNE DISTILLERY
SLEEP OVER DISTILLERY
FRIDAY 7 AUGUST 2015 walked distillery to Balmah
Sleep over Forest
SATURDAY 8 AUGUST 2015
Walked Balmaha to Rowardennan
Sleep over in Forest
SUNDAY 9th AUGUST 2015
sleep late - no walking - Aberfoyle
Sleep over at Loch Lubnaig
SUNDAY 9th AUGUST 2015
Knowing the weather forecast we were tuned in to sleep late - and that's exactly what happened.
Walkers - covered up in waterproofs walked around the steep corner past us. Spoke to 2 ladies and found out its the Rob Roy Way and shared a small slab of chocolate with them for later.
This is a rest day - thanks to the weather!
When the rain subsided by late late morning, we packed up as quickly as we could. Gordon moved things to the middle and I moved the foodstuffs.
We drove back to Drymen.
And got down to some serious planning..
Factors we considered:
1) 2 bad-weather days.
2) 2 sections - 7 miles of no contact - and then another 7 miles of no contact.
3) A really tricky bit climbing over rocks etc - and I'm by myself.
4) A car journey of 30 miles to meet in the middle.
5) Bad weather - torrential rain tomorrow.
So we start driving North to pick up the West Highland Way 14 miles further North.
Later I walked an extra 10 miles to make up these miles - 4 miles short of target.
ABERFOYLY here - ducks, and in at the shop - visitor centre - walked 3 miles - looked at go ape, ospreys, red squirrels
Tonight we would sleep next to Loch Lubher.
Our 33rd night in Hammy.
Wonderful!
A campervan with a family join us and so do vans. Out of them pour about 15 young people - one of the girls tells us they are part of a Christian youth group from Germany. So organised! One guy carried about 8 French loaves and the rest took equipment down to the loch shore where they put up
a big tent, several small ones and built a big fire!
We sleep like logs!
THURSDAY 6 AUGUST - MILNGAVIE TO GLENGOYNE DISTILLERY
SLEEP OVER DISTILLERY
FRIDAY 7 AUGUST 2015 walked distillery to Balmah
Sleep over Forest
SATURDAY 8 AUGUST 2015
Walked Balmaha to Rowardennan
Sleep over in Forest
SUNDAY 9th AUGUST 2015
sleep late - no walking - Aberfoyle
Sleep over at Loch Lubnaig
MONDAY 10AUGUST
No walking - drive to Drover's Inn
Sleep over at Falloch Falls - bad weather.
TUESDAY 11 AUGUST
MONDAY 10TH AUGUST 2015
Wake up LATE - not a movement from the campervan with the family and the tents down at the loch don't show any sign of movement - and it's already 9 am. Mind you weather is really bad.
Midges speed up everyone of our movements.
FIRST Smidge, then pack up - wild waving with a sarong and off we go!
Go to Tyndrum - Lasagne - at the Green Welly.
Went to Beinn Glas farm camping - some stuff for feet - tried to see where the WHW waymarker is.
Tried at the bridge. Asked where the starting point is - told.
Drover's Inn - beer there.
Camped first night here - Falls of Falloch. River in spate in brown and white - sounds like the see from the Hammy window. Make sandwiches under the umbrella. Campsite £16. That night we spent time cleaning ourselves from top to toe - and saved the money.
Listen to sermon by David Strain.
United to Jesus we come to life.
Ephesians 2 He fixed his love on unlovely us - pure mercy! We can't make God accept us - we cannot off-set our own failures - without God's free grace we would still be dead, enslaved and condemned. God's grace is abundant and enough.
We are His workmanship.
Not to shut ourselves out by our own unbelief.
Give us hearts that understand, eyes to see, ears to hear
SLEEP FAllS of FALLOCH
We go to sleep with the tipping-tapping of rain on the Hammy.
No midges - thanks to the wind.
TUESDAY 11TH AUGUST 2015
Inverarnan to Tyndrum
Today's stage is out in the open for large stretches and takes at last to the high mountain scenery. Inverarnan is the gateway to Glen Falloch. Follow the glen on easy tracks with the West Highland Line's trains passing by occasionally. The village of Crianlarich is reached through woods slightly off the main route before taking again to the woods in Strathfillan. Tyndrum is ahead and has lots of facilities for the walker. More beautiful villages are yet to come but here is a great place to relax and restock. You might well have time to walk the easy section to Bridge of Orchy this afternoon.BEINGLAS FARM TO BEFORE TYNDRUM
Invernan to Crianlarig 6.5 miles through Glen Falloch.
Electricity pylons.
Good tracks and a section of the old military road. Follow the beautiful River Falloch and an easy climb over rough sheep pasture to a conifer plantation high on the valley side. The trail descends to the flat valley bottom and it is here I meet Gordon at the main road.
ROUTE Beinh Glas pass Crianlarig Tyndrum
The route continued through the trees, with a fine viewpoint at which to take your pictures with Ben More and Stob Binnein in the background, before finally descending and crossing the main road.The route to Crianlairig is a steady climb with minor steeper ups and downs on the way.
Start at the back of Beinglas Farm the gravel path starts to steadily climb. The falls of Falloch on the way.
DISTANCE 9 milesStart at the back of Beinglas Farm the gravel path starts to steadily climb. The falls of Falloch on the way.
Beinglas Farm camping facilities, it has a collection of wooden wigwams.
This was real Highland scenery and despite the length of the day’s walk, Glen Falloch pitches the walker from lochside to mountain, with stunning views all around. The Falls of Falloch are just a bonus.
Down to Derrydarroch which turns out to be nothing more than a cottage. Immediately after here I cross the Falloch at Derrydarroch bridge.
Much construction and a clear board to show WHWers the way without wondering if we are on the right path.
Gordon and phone one another: I am near the highest pylon can you see it?
After a while along the River Falloch, it's a matter of folding double to allow space for you and your bag to walk under the low tunnel: A very low sheep creep under the railway The route then pitched us up on to the opposite side of the glen, with views east to Ben More and Cruach Ardrain. I was solo.
Here are steps that lead up to the Old Military Road which winding way could be seen for some time on the other side of the river in the glen. It's not as steep as it looked and this is the road all the way to Crianlarich.
Above the ancient farmstead of Keilator, an experimental surface, designed to test the flex and strength of ankle and sinew. If the latter, it certainly worked and I was glad to reach the relative smoothness of the forest track.
A forested section. I continue along the WHW. The wide path climbs steadily before descending past a stream. Tranquil. Meet 4 French siblings and meet Gordon where the A82 intersects with the WHW. Wonderful to see him - my feet are finished.
Down to Derrydarroch which turns out to be nothing more than a cottage. Immediately after here I cross the Falloch at Derrydarroch bridge.
Much construction and a clear board to show WHWers the way without wondering if we are on the right path.
Gordon and phone one another: I am near the highest pylon can you see it?
After a while along the River Falloch, it's a matter of folding double to allow space for you and your bag to walk under the low tunnel: A very low sheep creep under the railway The route then pitched us up on to the opposite side of the glen, with views east to Ben More and Cruach Ardrain. I was solo.
Here are steps that lead up to the Old Military Road which winding way could be seen for some time on the other side of the river in the glen. It's not as steep as it looked and this is the road all the way to Crianlarich.
Above the ancient farmstead of Keilator, an experimental surface, designed to test the flex and strength of ankle and sinew. If the latter, it certainly worked and I was glad to reach the relative smoothness of the forest track.
A forested section. I continue along the WHW. The wide path climbs steadily before descending past a stream. Tranquil. Meet 4 French siblings and meet Gordon where the A82 intersects with the WHW. Wonderful to see him - my feet are finished.
The WHW forks left here, heading up Strath Fillan, by-pass Crianlarich, Time to restock the provisions. the first spots of unexpected rain accompanied my final few hundred metres to ....(Cree-an-laarich),
Here I met a German girl who turned off the road to Crianlarich to lessen the load in her rucksack and post the surplus back home in Germany.
Here I met a German girl who turned off the road to Crianlarich to lessen the load in her rucksack and post the surplus back home in Germany.
Ben Lui, its twin peaks sprinkled with snow, filled the skyline westwards as the way meandered around the waters of the River Cononish. Tyndrum soon came into sight, as did a pair of people standing in the middle of the Crom Allt. It soon dawned that they were prospectors: panning for gold. There’s a disused gold mine at Cononish, so it’s plain there is some of the shiny stuff in them thar hills. The gentleman had had a small success that morning: a tiny nugget. Perhaps that Wild West staging post wasn’t so out-of-place after all.
Tyndrum’s Green Welly Stop provided a coffee break among bikers, coach parties and other WHWers.
Back to the Falls of Falloch to sleep a second night here.
WEDNESDAY 12TH AUGUST 2015
From before Tyndrum to the Bridge of Orchy.
Route:
- DAY 7 Wednesday 12th August
Mostly level along the worn cobbled surface of the old military road - nice mountain scenery.
The 18th century Bridge of Orchy - little more than a hotel an 2 bunkhouses and a railway station - but situated under the very handsome slopes of Beinn an Dothaidh and Beinn Dorain. No shops but there is a post office in a hut by the station.
Walk down the lane into the village.
Glen Orchy really is an impressive place and the walk along its length a treat.
We half sneaked past the Highland cattle at Auch
The long, straight stretches of the old military road which run alongside the West Highland Railway line gave a chance to think or not to think, my his poles rhythmically pounding the Highland stone, My tortured tenderfoot gait meant every step seemed excruciating pain.
Bridge of Orchy station hove into view and Hammy with it our digs for Wednesday. Boots were beyond ripe,. Our evening sustenance. Never got to eat haggis!
The path leading out of Tyndrum isn’t very exciting as it follows the A82 for a bit, so you don’t get much of a view. We also passed the local graveyard and were confused to see only one gravestone. I suppose in such a small village you don’t get many deaths!
The path started to divert away from the road and traversed the hillsides, and we could see the huge outline of Ben Dorain towering above us. The road evened out after that and crossed some open plains so we were able to pick up the pace, arriving in Bridge of Orchy by around 10am.
Glen OrchyRemembered Michael.
ROUTE Bridge of Orchy to Inveroran - Loch Tulla.
Climb a little bit up to the cairn 320 meter, for views over Loch Tulla, Rannoch Moor and the Black Mount
DISTANCE 3 miles
Over a small ridge to just beyond the Victoria Bridge. The hotel was built in 1708 at the beautiful west end of Loch Tulla.
The camping area by the bridge is free.
the black and white football ball.
Glen Orchy - beautiful!
The route crosses the main road north at the Bridge of Orchy Hotel
The WHW skirts the moor, giving great views down on to its vast expanse. The way rose gently from the bridge, through the plantation before a panorama of Loch Tulla appeared from the shoulder of Mam Carraigh. The route ahead could be plainly seen, from Inveroran across the opposite hillside in the shadow of the towering ridges of Stob Ghabhar and the slopes of its neighbour Stob a’Choire Odhair.
We just had a quick break on the benches outside the hotel, and ate some of our packed lunch, before continuing on. We passed over the river Orchy, and the wild campsite on the other side, where it looked as though people were just waking up.At the old drovers’ inn at Inveroran.
We just had a quick break on the benches outside the hotel, and ate some of our packed lunch, before continuing on. We passed over the river Orchy, and the wild campsite on the other side, where it looked as though people were just waking up.At the old drovers’ inn at Inveroran.
Mentally, I had been looking forward to our next milepost more than any. Buachaille Etive
SLEPT AT GLEN ORCHY RIVER
FRIDAY 14TH AUGUST 2015DAY 9 Friday 14th August
Bad weather
ROUTE
DISTANCE
SLEPT at VICTORIA BRIDGE INVERORAN
The route crosses the main road north at the Bridge of Orchy Hotel.
A girl came jogging past.. Nice to see Loch Tulla and the Inveroran Hotel in the distance knowing Gordon is there. A straightforward descend brings me to the minor road and soon to meet up with Gordon. Pop in at the Inveroran Hotel, the old drover's inn, to have our WHW passport stamped.
Tyndrum to Inveroran, 10 miles, 16 km, 4 - 5 hours
There is a steep climb as you leave Bridge of Orchy, but you are rewarded with some of the best views in Scotland (in our humble opinion). A short descent brings you to the isolated Inveroran Hotel.
There’s quite a steep climb out of Bridge of Orchy, but I was on a roll by this point. My huffing and panting from earlier in the week was long gone, and I practically skipped up the hill. Near the top of the hill was covered in gorgeous brightly coloured heather, which inspired me to burst into song – “Across the hills o’ burning heather, Dumbarton tolls the hour of pleasure, A song of love that has no measure, When Jeannie kneels and sings tae me.” – From an old Scottish song, Dumbarton’s Drums.
We reached the top, and the view was amazing, overlooking Loch Tulla.There was a cairn on top of the hill, which is essentially just a large pile of stones. These were used in ancient times to help mark out pathways, or for burial sites and memorials, and it’s traditional to place another stone on top as you pass.
Bridge of Orchy to Inveroran. Cross the river and take the path over Mam Carraigh. The woodland opens up onto moorland and soon the summit is reached with the cairn.A girl came jogging past.. Nice to see Loch Tulla and the Inveroran Hotel in the distance knowing Gordon is there. A straightforward descend brings me to the minor road and soon to meet up with Gordon. Pop in at the Inveroran Hotel, the old drover's inn, to have our WHW passport stamped.
We descended down the other side of the hill, towards the hotel at Inveroran, and passed someone coming up the other side. He cheered us on, saying “not long to go,” and seemed surprised when we mentioned going for a beer, as it wasn’t yet noon. “A beer before lunchtime?!!”
The Inveroran Hotel was one of my favourite stops on the whole way. The bar was very old fashioned with wood panelling and red carpets, and probably hadn’t changed in decades. There was also a mural painted on the wall showing a map of the whole West Highland Way, and had little cartoon figures depicting the various stops along the way. It was great to see how far we had already come; and we could also see that by the end of the day we would have completed three-quarters of the whole course!
The next stretch was going to be difficult though – 10 miles over Rannoch Moor with nowhere to stop or shelter.The WHW skirts the moor, giving great views down on to its vast expanse. The way rose gently from the bridge, through the plantation before a panorama of Loch Tulla appeared from the shoulder of Mam Carraigh. The route ahead could be plainly seen, from Inveroran across the opposite hillside in the shadow of the towering ridges of Stob Ghabhar and the slopes of its neighbour Stob a’Choire Odhair.
Mentally, I had been looking forward to our next milepost more than any. Buachaille Etive
SATURDAY 15TH AUGUST 2015
Most of the day in Glencoe - Visitor Centre and walked the first bit.
DAY 11 Sunday 16th August
ROUTE Kings House to Altfeadh
DISTANCE 1 miles
The NT of Scotland Visitor Centre - cafe -
Clen Coe is scenically an impressive valley standing guard at the entrance is the arrow head mountain Etive Mor. From here you descend into the glen towards Loch Achtriochtan the road is squeezed by the walls of the Bidean nam Bian massif to the South and the incredible line of Aonach Eagach ridge to the North. A playground for climbers and hill walkers. The notorious events in 1692 of the massacre of the MacDonalds through a premeditated plan to exterminate the clan in cold blood after they had provided hospitality to their murderers for 2 weeks. Sanctioned by the crown. - good story for the tourist industry.
The leaflet for the Kingshouse Hotel, tonight's destination, also says that Glencoe means "the glen of weeping".
The track from the inn ran more or less parallel to the main road, heading into Glencoe and providing a changing perspective on the Buachaille, which reveals itself to be not an isolated pyramid, but a much more complex mountain, cradling the Coire na Tulaich and displaying its massive gullies as the way passed under its great bulk.
Kingshouse to Kinlochleven
Kingshouse to Kinlochleven
The pathway from Kingshouse hotel follows the A82 until the turn off up the Devils staircase. This may put the fear of god into you perhaps but although it is a relatively steep climb it isn't really all that bad and the climb is only for a short distance, once at the top it is fairly flay for a time and then it is down hill all the way.
The pathway can be a bit rocky at times, but eventually a tarmac road which zig zags all the way into Kinlochleven is reached.Summary:
- Distance / Time: 9 miles (14.4km) / 4 to 5 hours
- Total Ascent: 423m
- Total Descent: 659m
- Max Height: 547m
- Terrain: The surfaces are mainly good but you are very highly exposed. At its highest point you are at 550m before a long descent down to Kinlochleven, although short it's still a hard stage in bad weather.
- Accommodation: Kinlochleven
- Refreshments: Kinlochleven
- Places of Interest: The Devil's Staircase. At 550m (1850ft) this is the highest point along the way. The Ice Factor (National Ice Climbing Centre) Kinlochleven
Route:
- Crossing the river behind the hotel walk up the road until you reach the fence, you then turn left and keep straight for half a mile. Before you reach the A82, turn to your right over a stile and follow the track uphill.
- The way runs by Altnafeadh where the way starts a stiff climb out of Glen Coe up a track known as The Devil's Staircase, good surface underneath and starts to zig-zag increasing in size. The summit is marked by a cairn (pile of stones). Once passed the shoulder of the hill, look to your right for views of Blackwater Reservoir.
- The descent down to Kinlochleven seems protracted, look ahead of you and you may pick out the way running west below the Mamores.
- The way follows the pipes towards the back of an old Alcan works, crosses them, turns right up the road over the River Leven, turns left and follows the military road alongside a housing scheme.
- At Morrison Crescent the way turns left down a riverside path and soon meets the B863. There you turn left (back across the river) reaching the centre of Kinlochleven, or keep right to continue along the way.
ROUTE Altfeadh to Kinlochleven
DISTANCE Sunday and Monday - 8miles (67miles)
Up Devil's staircase packed with views: Glen Coe, the Mamores and Ben Nevis.
Three summit cairns - put on stones for Gordon too.
Left opposite a school on a hidden trail into heather at a waymark - goodbye to Gordon.
Early start - for several hours by myself - love it.
Mountain bikers - quick decisions.
We still had the notorious Devil’s Staircase to climb though, so it wasn’t going to be an easy day by any means.glad I had my walking poles to help propel me upwards.We eventually reached the top, after seemingly endless switchbacks all the way up the steep hillside. The view from the top was one of the best things I’ve seen in my whole life! On one side we had Glencoe and Rannoch Moor where we’d come from yesterday, and on the other side were the Grampian mountains where we would now be heading, and where the finish line was now within reach.
We descended down the other side and could soon spot Kinlochleven in the distance, although it still took hours for us to reach there! It was actually quite deceiving as we thought we were getting closer and closer but then turned the next corner and realised we still had miles to go.
The path diverted through some woodland for a while, and past the huge pipes which transport water to the hydro-electric power station.We eventually reached the outskirts of Kinlochleven and I could barely walk any further. so I was relieved the day’s walk was over. We stopped at the Tailrace Inn for some food
Strenuous through the heart of the Highlands and spectacular along mountainous terrain.
Climb to the highest point - ascend 259 meters up the Devil's Staircase - a sustained climb. Then follow the old road as it climbs to the pass (548m) where there are views over the Glencoe peaks and - today is good weather - north over the Mamores to Ben Nevis.
From the top it's a long descent across rugged mountainside and then on a steep 4-wheel drive track down to Kinlochleven set admidst dramatic Highland scenery.
Views east to the to the long Blackwater Reservoir.
Highland grandeur.
Trail contours across mountainside with the Mamores range opposite and miles of wilderness to the East.
Lovely waterfall, birch woodland and continue to descend on steep track.
Good view of the 6 massive water pipes.
Industrial entrance to Kinlochleven
Kinlochleven is a planned factory village. Still pleasant and the people friendly here in Lochaber. Massive indoor rock climbing wall and ice wall.
Kinlochleven at the head of Loch Leven.
We planned to meet at the Ice Factor -but, the night before there was a fire - and it was all closed.
At the MacDonald Hotel we bought showers - at the adjacent campsite. £2 each, own towels.
Meal at the Tailrace Inn.
Altnafeadh, the point at which the Devil’s Staircase departs northwards from Glencoe, seemed a long time coming, but finally the fateful moment arrived. It has been said many times that the path’s bark is worse than its bite and, in truth, its worrying soubriquet was most likely applied by the poor soldiers charged with building it rather than those who subsequently used it to pass into Kinlochleven.
before tackling the staircase! WThe Staircase starts steeply, but its zigzags ease the route and before long the summit was reached. The backward view was filled with Glen Etive and its mountains and, finally, Scotland’s king of mountains could be seen: Ben Nevis.
before tackling the staircase! WThe Staircase starts steeply, but its zigzags ease the route and before long the summit was reached. The backward view was filled with Glen Etive and its mountains and, finally, Scotland’s king of mountains could be seen: Ben Nevis.
The peaks of the Mamore Forest held the distant horizon with, to the North-East, the reservoir of Blackwater sitting murkily on the high plateau. I stopped for a break. Stob Ban stood sentinel as the Big Ben dropped out of sight
My feet continued to pain me.
The settlement of Kinlochleven was soon to be seen, nestled at the head of the loch, steep slopes enclosing its factory-built homes. Some sort of mountain pixie must be at work up on the tops, for the town never seemed to get closer.
The massive pipes which fed the old aluminium works in Kinlochleven
The track, built for the smelting works’ maintenance vehicles to reach the system of pipes feeding from Blackwater, is hard on the feet and progressed through a series of hairpins that seemed to stretch to eternity. Never has so short a distance seemed so long. Perhaps it was the pain from the or maybe just the fatigue of the longest, hardest day.
At last, the ramshackle remains of the old aluminium works drew close and with it the promise of food, drink and rest.
The Tailrace Inn is right on the WHW and the smell of food wafting from it was most welcome.
Sleep was assured.
TUESDAY 18TH AUGUST 2015
Kinlochleven to Fort William
Kingshouse to Kinlochleven
From Kingshouse set off for what will be the West Highland Way's highest stage. First pass along the valley floor and under the huge cliffs of Buachaille Etive Mor, a mountain familiar from countless postcards. Climb up the Devil's Staircase, actually quite a simple path, to a surprising view of the country ahead. See down to Blackwater Reservoir and across to the Mamores and Ben Nevis. Now it's time to descend on a long twisting track to Kinlochleven, the village at the head of Loch Leven which makes an ideal stop for the night.
From Kingshouse set off for what will be the West Highland Way's highest stage. First pass along the valley floor and under the huge cliffs of Buachaille Etive Mor, a mountain familiar from countless postcards. Climb up the Devil's Staircase, actually quite a simple path, to a surprising view of the country ahead. See down to Blackwater Reservoir and across to the Mamores and Ben Nevis. Now it's time to descend on a long twisting track to Kinlochleven, the village at the head of Loch Leven which makes an ideal stop for the night.
Kinlochleven to Fort William
The final stage leaves the shelter of Kinlochleven to climb through woods to reach a high valley. Follow the valley on a track with the Mamores to your right. Drop down to Glen Nevis through forest, arriving near the foot of Ben Nevis having seen the huge bulk of its Western slopes from your trail. Easy valley walking then brings you to the centre of Fort William and the end of your quest. Well done!
The final stage leaves the shelter of Kinlochleven to climb through woods to reach a high valley. Follow the valley on a track with the Mamores to your right. Drop down to Glen Nevis through forest, arriving near the foot of Ben Nevis having seen the huge bulk of its Western slopes from your trail. Easy valley walking then brings you to the centre of Fort William and the end of your quest. Well done!
We woke up with mixed feelings this morning – excited that this was our last day and we were almost finished the walk; but at the same time felt a little bit sad that it was all going to be over. We’d had such an amazing time this past week, and met so many nice people that we didn’t want it to end!
The day’s walk started with a steep climb out of Kinlochleven, but we were so used to climbing hills by this point that we hardly noticed it. From the top we could see back down overlooking the town and where we’d come from the day previously. We stopped for a few quick photos before moving on.
The next stage was a long path over the hilltops which went on for a good few miles. There was nothing too strenuous here so we were able to keep a decent pace up. The sun was starting to beat down though – I’m sure it must have been one of the hottest days of the year! We passed an old ruined cottage and stopped for a quick break, but Andy was getting sunburnt so we didn’t stay for long. We agreed that we’d have a proper break as soon as we found some shade.
Well the path just continued on and on, without shade. It seemed never ending, and we were both starting to struggle a bit in the heat. We passed a sign next to where the road intersects, and we learned that we hadn’t even reached the halfway point for the day yet! That put us on a bit of a downer, as we thought we’d walked much further.
We came to another cairn at the bottom of the pass. It marks the spot of the Battle of Inverlochy (1645), between the Royalists (MacDonalds) and Covenanters (Campbells). The sign told us that if you sympathised with the MacDonalds you should add a stone to the cairn, or if you preferred the Campbells you should take one away. I added one to the pile.
Eventually we came to a small wooded area next to a stream, where we stopped and had lunch and were able to fill up our bottles with fresh water. We chilled there for about 20 minutes before continuing on, and I felt much better after getting a decent break.
We knew we were almost there now, only a few miles to go – so we practically raced down the hill, overtaking other walkers as we went.
The last 2 miles of the Way follows along next to the road once you reach the bottom of the hill, so it was a total anticlimax compared to the spectacular views we had only an hour previously. I was exhausted by this point and my feet were in agony. I limped along reluctantly, disappointed that the only view we had now was a main road filled with traffic.
We eventually rounded the last corner and spotted the green and blue sign of the old woollen mill, which is traditionally the end of the Way. I let out a manic laugh that sounded like a B-movie bad guy when I spotted it. We posed next to the sign for a photo, then I went inside to collect our free certificates. The place was filled with tourists, all buying overpriced tartan mugs, t-shirts and other useless stuff. I wanted to get out of there as soon as possible.
“Probably one of the best feelings I’ve ever had in my life!”
A few years ago the end of the Way was moved to the centre of town, so really we hadn’t finished yet. The official finish line is now in the high street, which is really just to try and get you to spend money in the shops. As far as we were concerned we’d reached Fort William so we had already made it. We walked the last mile to the town centre though, and posed for photos again at the new finish line. The sense of achievement is just indescribable – probably one of the best feelings I’ve ever had in my life!
DISTANCE 14.5 miles
Kinlochleven to Fort William
Summary:
- Distance / Time: 16 miles (24km) / 7 to 8 hours
- Total Ascent: 735m
- Total Descent: 737m
- Max Height: 333m
- Terrain: Very good paths at this last stage, there is a steep climb out of Kinlochleven, then there are no more serious gradients. The path through Nevis Forest is a bit rough, then on to some tarmac descending into Fort William.
- Accommodation: Fort William
- Refreshments: Fort William.
- Toilets: Fort William
- Places of Interest: The way goes through Lairigmor, this section of the walk boasts 11 Munros (mountains over 3000feet).
Route:
- The Way continues on a path through the woods, following the old military road route for several miles.
- At first the path climbs steeply, zig-zaging to ease the gradient, then becomes more gentle. Then, after a hairpin bend, you emerge from the birchwood to a superb view of the Loch framed by mountains to the south.
- After reaching a height of around 900ft (275metres), you reach Lairigmor,(the great pass) with very large hills on both sides.
- The walking is easy through this part after a while the way swings north. You then go through some woodland. At the edge of the woodland you are about halfway from Kinlochleven to Fort William.
- To keep to the way bear right through the woods then over a high stile and head toward Glen Nevis (two miles along)
- The final stretch of the way is a bit of rough, walking through forestry plantations with occasional breaks and you see to your north the Huge bulk of Ben Nevis.
- Just under three miles futher on look to your right and you will see Dun Deardail which has an Iron Age Fort.
- Shortly after the fort, you now descend into Glen Nevis down to a broad bending forest road. The way continues northward on the forest road, after about 700yards the way turns sharp right steeply downhill, then it forks left past a small cemetery.
- Go through the wooden gate, turn left at the narrow road alongside the River Nevis, follow for one and a half miles to reach your destination, passing a massive boulder on your left called (Clach Comhairle) the stone of counsel.
- A signpost marks the way at the Nevis Bridge
- Proceed into the Town Centre along Belford Road, past the Swimming Pool, Hospital and then turn left at Nevisport onto High Street, proceed along to Gordon Square- The NEW END of the West HIghland Way.
Tough and rewarding. Cross a beautiful high pass.
Cross Mamore Lodge Drive
It's a long sustained climb of 250 m out of Kinlochleven on a steep winding trail through birch trees. At the top, above the tree line you zig zag up over an outcrop of pale rock. you continue on a wide track, the old military road which traverses the mountain side with glorious views down the length of Loch Leven to the mountains - the pap of Glencoe.
Possibly the best views of the whole walk - the toothy ridge of Aonach Eagach - due South - spectacular.
Undulated path up the glen.
From here the trail rises gently through a valley to a broad pass - the Lairigmoor at 330m - exposed.
It is called The Big Pass. A wide barren mountain crossing on a grand highland scale.
Sheepfold and after that a forest which is cleared - felled trees.
The Way descends and climbs again through a series of conifer plantations with glimpses of Ben Nevis.
Followed lane to Fort William for 4.5 miles.
We now had only 15 miles (23km) to go, with a couple of thousand feet of climbing, until .
The final leg on our last legs up the steep climb out of the town and up towards the Lairig Mor.
As promised by the Met Office, the morning was clear bringing a warm glow to the heart as I wind my way through the forest rising above the loch. Views The path moved away towards the grand pass of the lairig, the bulk of Beinn na’Caillich intervening soon afterwards and Loch Leven was out of sight.
There was a spring in the step of most of our group, even if it was a lopsided spring. I hobbled to Kings House.
The Lairig Mòr is another hugely significant part of the Highlands. Its long, broad pass was the route taken by leaders of the MacDonald clan who had escaped the murderous night of the Campbells’ treachery. Imagine the horror and despair these Highlanders must have felt as they headed, wounded and shocked, back to their Glencoe base.
The Lairig Mòr, between Kinlochleven and Glen Nevis
At the far end of the lairig is a great cairn. Tradition says that a passing MacDonald should add a stone; a Campbell should remove one. As a Lobban, I felt unqualified to take sides. I ate my lunch while gazing at the cairn and its interpretation board.
Feeling ever more confident as the journey’s end approached.
The rounded top of the Pap of Glencoe and a distant view of Aonach Eagach’s northern face provided the mountain background along the route.
The Pap of Glencoe
Beyond the two ruined crofts of Tigh-na-Sleubhaich and Lairigmòr, the map shows the track entering forest again as it turns north towards Glen Nevis. A great deal of logging was going on and vast clearings have been made. on the lower slopes of Meall a’Chaorainn,
Would I recommend the West Highland Way? Without hesitation. The guys who had completed the route ten times asked me if it was better than the Coast to Coast. That’s a difficult question. I’d had a very different experience on the Coast to Coast: solo, big pack, double the distance. I’d say the Wainwright route has a bit more variety, but the West Highland Way has grandeur in abundance. There’s no capping the views of the mountains of the Highlands and it’s a splendid walk. And, it’s easier. There’s considerably less climbing and the route is very well maintained, with none of the navigational difficulties of the Coast to Coast.
So, do them both, and see what you think. As for us, it was off to our home for the night, just a few yards away at the Distillery Guest House.
The Distillery House B&B, our final stop
Celebrations were had at the Grog and Gruel, the only pub I can truly recommend in Fort William, where Kevin and Mary joined us, along with Nick. Kevin had brought his odd miniature guitar with him all the way, so it was only fair he got the chance to belt out a couple of songs, to the puzzlement of some of the locals.
A curry at the Indian Garden rounded off our evening, before a hobble back up the road to bed and the prospect of a nine-hour train journey home the following day.
Over the pricey parathas, I asked Kevin why he chose, of all the walks in all the world, the West Highland Way.
“I’d been researching the long walks in Scotland and northern England for some time for a walk I was planning with my father when he was alive,” he told me. “He and I had looked at the West Highland Way, which then was still pretty new.
“We had talked about it and also about walking Hadrian’s Wall. When Mary and I talked about doing something for my 50th birthday after my father had passed away, the idea came back to me.
“After talking to people who had done the walk, we agreed that Hadrian’s Wall and the West Highland Way were good, historical walks. Although Hadrian’s Wall has Scottish history, it’s not actually in Scotland. I’d also worked in Glasgow 20 years ago and the idea of starting a walk where I’d been before and going some place new was good.”
And his view of the way: “It was better than I’d ever expected. The company was fantastic. It was great to see the Highlands in the fall. It’s magical to see the landscapes at your own pace.
“I like the history of the trail and the narrative: the books you’ve read, the movies you’ve seen. Everything from Rob Roy to Burns poetry and music. A band called Silly Wizard had lots of the place names on the trail in their songs.”
“I’ve done four or five 60-mile sections of the Pacific Crest Trail, but it’s the first time I’ve done anything where you hiked from inn to inn. A hundred mile pub crawl. Parts of the trail are quite challenging. The scenery is as spectacular as any other and it’s comfortable at the end of the day. You get to sleep in an inn. Your girlfriend can take the bus!
“On the John Muir Trail, you don’t even cross a road for 210 miles.”
So there you are: a Californian’s recommendation of a great Scottish pub crawl. What do you need to complete it? Perseverance; a few blister plasters; a map, even though some say you can do it without ever referring to the map; plenty of money for the bars, and that‘s about it.
The Holiday Fellowship sign on wall of the Clansman bar, Rowardennan
Protection against the elements is essential. We were very lucky with the weather but there are prolonged sections of the WHW where, when the weather is bad, it will be very bad, so heed the advice. Camping is possible virtually anywhere along the route, and there are carriers who will take the heavy loads and leave you free to enjoy the glorious scenery.
By Saturday, the view from our train had changed: the top of The Ben was shrouded in cloud and a light drizzle hung over the expanse of Rannoch Moor. We’d managed to time it just right.
I now had a camera full of pictures and a head full of memories. They’ll last; the ankle pain has already subsided.
WEDNESDAY 19TH AUGUST 2015
The climb out of Kinlochleven is failry steep and it does last for quite a time. From then on the walking is never really steep but undulating. The walking on this section is a mixture between moorland and forest track, although a lot of the trees have now been cut down.
As you get closer to Fort William the view of Ben Nevis may come into site but more likely it will be hidden by cloud. The last part is mainly in a forest but agiain last time I was there they were cutting down a lot of the trees. Where the forest is cleared or thinned down Fort William comes into view. A tramac road is reached and this will lead to the minor road that leads into Fort William.
I have always found this last part on the minor road hard, very sore on the feet.
DAY 14 Wednesday 19th AugustROUTE Glen Nevis Head to Fort William
DISTANCE 6 miles
From Braveheart car park, The counsel stone. along the River Nevis.
we reached Nirvana, or Nevis Bridge roundabout as it’s known to the locals
The long-distance walk petered out in unspectacular fashion - end with a pavement trudge alongside the A82 on the busy roundabout at the Nevis Bridge.
Overlooking Loch Linnhe
Adventure, challenge, freedom and the joys of hours and hours and miles and miles in nature.
The climax of the walk was approaching, and finally Ben Nevis’s massive bulk started to fill the view ahead. The WHW diverges from its former route at Blar a’Chaorainn, where the metalled road forges north towards the west end of Fort William. You can still follow this more direct way, past Lochan Lùnn Dà -Bhrà , if you fancy the prospect of six kilometres of hard asphalt. However, we followed the main route which swings north-east into the Nevis Forest.
Now, it has to be said that the end of the WHW is a bit of an anticlimax. Unlike the descent into Kinlochleven, the track seems to drop quickly enough, the view of Ben Nevis receding as you make your way northwards and before long, I found myself on the roadside in Glen Nevis. The Clach Comhairle, the great boulder at the side of the road. Ended up at the roundabout, the official end of the route, for the customary photographs, handshakes and backslaps.
Journey's end.
The feet and legs felt every mile of the 95 we’d covered, but the way provided some fabulous memories.
SLEPT in Glen Nevis
THURSDAY 20TH AUGUST 2015Walked Glen Nevis.
Trail Description:
Glen Nevis is famous as the setting for films such as The Highlander, Rob Roy and Braveheart so there is plenty of magical scenery to enjoy.
The main issue with this road route is the summer tourist traffic. Hybrid and mountain bikes will cope easily with the alternative forest track.
Start at the Ben Nevis Woollen Mill Visitor Centre located at the mini roundabout at the entrance to Glen Nevis. From the car park at the Visitor Centre take the third exit at the roundabout.
About ½ mile into the Glen take a look at the Roaring Mill Waterfalls as they crash over some of the oldest rock in the world.
For those on mountain bikes- shortly after the waterfalls- the sign for the Braveheart Car Park indicates a right hand turn onto the forest track. Once on the track go through the gate. After ¾ mile, at the next junction take the left hand fork. Continue on this track for a further 2 miles. At the junction take the left hand fork. The forest track now swoops downhill to join the tarmac road at Achriabhach.
Cycling on the road you pass the Glen Nevis Visitor Centre followed shortly by a restaurant and then a café. On to the cattle grid where a pause in the lay by to look across to the left at the slopes of Britain’s highest mountain, Ben Nevis, as they tower above you, is a good idea.
After around 5 miles the road swings down to the left and crosses the River Nevis. Almost directly underneath the bridge are the spectacular Lower Falls.
From here the road becomes narrow and single track. Be prepared to pull over for your own safety and comfort to allow traffic to pass.
The road becomes lumpier and turns left on an uphill bend. Just around this bend is a track down to Paddy’s Bridge. A good place to stop for a picnic.
Starting out again take a minute to look down into the gorge where the river is carving out intricate rock formations.
The end of the road is not far now. The Top Car Park is the high point of the ride. Unfortunately the footpath going on through the gorge is unsuitable for cyclists. Although it is worthwhile if you can lock up your bike securely to walk through to look at Steall Waterfalls – Scotland’s second highest.
Now is the time to think about returning for a cup of tea to the café you passed earlier, and head back the way you came!
Drove to Steve and Kathy.
Meal with the them and Jonathan and Sammy and James and Iona.
FRIDAY 20thAUGUST 2015
Raft and home-bound
DAY 15 Thursday 201st August
ROUTE RAFTING Kenmore to Aberfeldy
DISTANCE 6 miles
Summary - over 13 days
6 full days
3 half days
3 days of rain
1) Thursday 6 August - half day
Milngavie (pronounced Mulguy) to Glengoyne Distillery.
Half Day
2) Friday 7 August
Glengoyne Distillery to Drymen
Full Day
3) Saturday 8th August
Dryman to Balmaha
8 miles
Full day
4) Sunday 9th August
Balmaha to Rowendennan
BAD WEATHER
5) Monday 10th August
Bad weather - travelled North - Aberfoyle
6) Tuesday 11th August
Beinh Glas past Crianlarig to Tyndrum
9 miles
Full Day
7) Wednesday 12th August
Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy
10 miles
Full Day
8) Thursday 13th August
Glen OrchyRemembered Michael.
Bridge of Orchy to Invernan
3 miles
Half Day
9)Friday 14th August
Bad weather
10) Saturday 15th August
Invernan to Kings House Glencoe Rannoch Moor
9 miles (57.7 Miles)
Full Day
11) Sunday 16th August
Kings House to Alt Feadh
3 miles
Half Day
12) Monday 17th August
Alt Feadh to Kinlochleven
6 miles (67miles)
Full day
13) Tuesday 18th August
Kinlochleven to Fort William
13 miles
Full day
14) Wednesday 19th August
Glen Nevis to Fort William
6 miles
Morning
15) Thursday 20th Aug
ROUTE RAFTING Kenmore to Aberfeldy
DISTANCE 6 miles
